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Cleaning brick and masonry

Updated 2026-09-04 / 8 min read

Photograph-style brick wall half cleaned along a diagonal
Surfaces & Techniques
Efflorescence and soot on one half of a brick wall, bare brick on the other, after a pre-wet and a dilute acid.

Assess the brick before anything else

Brick spans two centuries of manufacturing and the difference matters more than anything else on this page. Modern extruded brick is hard, dense and takes 1,200–2,000 PSI comfortably. Soft-fired historic brick has a fired skin over a soft body, and once that skin goes the brick erodes for the rest of its life.

  • Scratch test. A key on an inconspicuous brick. If it powders, treat the wall as soft.
  • Look at the mortar. Soft lime mortar means old brick and a low-pressure job.
  • Check for previous repairs. Hard cement pointing on soft brick is already a problem; cleaning will show it.
  • Test patch, always. Somewhere the customer does not look, and check it dry.

Surface damage risk

Spalling — the face of the brick popping off — is permanent and cannot be reversed. On any wall that scratches, any wall with lime mortar, or any building of genuine age, the correct answer is often to decline the pressure job and offer a low pressure chemical clean instead.

Pressure, and its limits on masonry

Photograph-style brick wall half cleaned along a diagonal — close detail
Efflorescence on the left of the cut, clean brick on the right. The white bloom is salt, not dirt.

For sound modern brick: 1,200–2,000 PSI through a 25-degree green tip, kept moving, held back far enough that the spray is a fan and not a chisel. Work top down so runoff does not stain what you have already cleaned, and keep the wall wet ahead of the tip.

What pressure will not do is remove mineral deposit, paint or carbon staining. Reaching for more pressure when the wall stops improving is how brick gets ruined. When pressure stops working, the answer is chemistry.

Efflorescence is not dirt

The white powdery bloom on masonry is soluble salt that has migrated out of the brick or mortar with moisture and crystallised at the surface. Washing it off with water partially dissolves it and drives some back in, and it returns within weeks — often worse, because you have added moisture.

Treat it with a proprietary efflorescence remover, and tell the customer the honest part: the bloom is a symptom of water moving through the wall. Until the water path is dealt with — a failed gutter, ground level against the brick, a leaking downpipe — it will keep coming back regardless of how well you clean it.

Acid: pre-wet, dilute, neutralise

Masonry cleaners are usually acidic, and the sequence matters more than the product.

  1. Pre-wet the wall thoroughly. Dry brick drinks the acid deep into the pores where it cannot be rinsed out and continues working, leaving burns.
  2. Apply the weakest dilution that works. Test it. Start weaker than you think.
  3. Keep the dwell short and never let it dry on the wall.
  4. Rinse thoroughly, from the top, with far more water than feels necessary.
  5. Neutralise if the product calls for it. Residual acid keeps etching after you leave.

Surface damage risk

Never mix an acid masonry cleaner with sodium hypochlorite, in the tank or on the wall. The combination releases chlorine gas. If a wall needs both an acid treatment and a biological one, they happen on different days with a full rinse between.

PSI & nozzle quick reference

0 degRed
Spot jet. Etches most surfaces.4000 PSI
15 degYellow
Stripping bare concrete.4000 PSI
25 degGreen
General concrete and walkways.3500 PSI
40 degWhite
Siding, wood, vehicles.1500 PSI
~65 degBlack
Detergent draw, low pressure.500 PSI

Mortar is the weak point

Brick is usually harder than the mortar holding it. Aim the fan at a joint and you will wash mortar out of it, which shows up as a line of pale, recessed joints and, on an old wall, as water getting in. Work the fan across the face of the brick rather than into the joints, and keep the tip square to the wall rather than raked along it.

If the joints are already soft, sandy or missing in places, the job is repointing and not cleaning. Say so, quote the clean for after the repointing, and let the customer decide.

Painted brick is a different job entirely

Removing paint from masonry is stripping, not cleaning: chemical strippers, containment, and on any pre-1978 building the lead rules apply. EPA’s renovation rule requires the work area to be isolated so that no dust or debris, including in the waste water, leaves it. That is a licensed job in many states, not an upsell.

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