Pressure washing job checklist
Almost every callback traces to something that was not checked before the water came on. This is the walkthrough that prevents them: three phases, twenty-six points, printable for the clipboard. Nothing on it is clever — that is rather the point.
Job checklist
Tick as you go. Print gives you a clean sheet for the clipboard.
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01Before the truck moves
02On site, before water
03During and after

PSI & nozzle quick reference
- 0 degRed
- Spot jet. Etches most surfaces.4000 PSI
- 15 degYellow
- Stripping bare concrete.4000 PSI
- 25 degGreen
- General concrete and walkways.3500 PSI
- 40 degWhite
- Siding, wood, vehicles.1500 PSI
- ~65 degBlack
- Detergent draw, low pressure.500 PSI
The four that save the most money
- Photograph everything before you start. Two minutes of phone video ends the argument about whether that crack was there.
- Walk the area with the customer and name the defects out loud. A defect you pointed out is context; the same defect discovered afterwards is damage.
- Wet the planting, then wet it again mid-job. Dilution is the only real defence against chemical burn, and the second wetting is the one people skip.
- Test patch somewhere nobody looks. Behind the downspout, at the back corner of the garage. Thirty seconds against a repaint.
Windows, outlets and storm doors
Where the runoff goes is part of the job
On a residential drive it is usually a non-issue. On anything commercial it is the first question you will be asked, and the answer has to be better than a shrug. EPA guidance is that untreated wash water carrying soaps, detergents, sediment or grease should not reach a storm drain, surface water or groundwater; the best-practice route is on-site recovery or the sanitary sewer. Local rules differ and are the ones you will be held to — check with your local water authority, once, and know your own answer.
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